Once upon a time, there were two friends - my old law partner and me. We met once a week for breakfast to talk business at Los Dos Amigos on Washington.
It isn't the sort of place you expect for high-power breakfast meetings. The crowd is a mix of construction workers and Rice Military locals. There are only about 10 tables, each with vinyl tablecloths. Speakers play mariachi and conjunto music.
The crowd is an ethnic mix, and the staff is bilingual. Yet it is the sort of place where even the gringos in ties try to practice their Spanish, just for fun. The staff doesn't even bother to hand menus to half the customers. They know what they want.
My friend and I no longer work together. And when we do meet now, it is usually someplace upscale for lunch. So I hadn't thought of Los Dos in years.
But this morning I dropped in by myself, just for old times sake. I ordered an old favorite - huevos divorciados.
Two eggs are cooked over easy, but divided on two sides of the plate. One is topped with a green salsa. The other is topped with red. Sides include refried pinto beans, a few french fries, and corn tortillas.
This simple, cheap plate stands above many other Mexican breakfasts for a few reasons. One is the very spicy salsas. I have a high tolerance for heat. Yet after just a few bites, I found myself hiccupping - a sign of a very spicy sauce. These salsas are also notable for large chunks of fresh peppers and tomatoes.
The dish also stands out for the refried beans. The texture is runny, especially as the beans mix with the salsa and egg juices. But the flavor is mysterious, meaty, smoky. Only a handful of Houston restaurants serve refried beans that taste this good.
The best strategy is to save the corn tortillas for the end, to mop up the runny, messy goodness that is left on the plate.
This morning, my beautiful plate of food, plus coffee, cost only $2.90.
I also have tried Los Dos Amigos for lunch. Most dishes are decent, and a good value. Yet it is the breakfast that made this spot an old favorite.